Grading a Pokemon card transforms it from a piece of cardboard into a certified, authenticated, liquid collectible. A PSA 10 Charizard ex from Obsidian Flames sells for 3-5x the price of the same card raw. But grading is not free, and not every card is worth grading. This guide walks through every step of the process in 2026, from pre-screening your cards to receiving your slabs in the mail.
The full process from eyeball inspection to slab in hand takes 3-8 weeks for standard tiers and up to 4+ months for economy/bulk tiers. The steps below apply to all four major grading companies — PSA, CGC, BGS, and TAG — with notes on where their requirements differ.
Key Takeaways
- Run the grading math first: only grade if the PSA 10 price minus raw price is at least 3x your grading fee plus shipping.
- Use Card Savers (semi-rigid holders), not toploaders, for all submissions. Graders charge extra to remove cards from toploaders.
- Pre-screen every card with a 10x jeweler's loupe under angled light. Over 70% of submissions that come back at PSA 8 or lower could have been caught at home.
- PSA requires 55/45 front centering for a 10. BGS requires 50/50-55/45. Measure before you submit.
- Use GradePokemon's free AI grading tool to get an instant grade estimate before spending money on professional grading.
Table of Contents
Step 1: Determine If Grading Is Worth It
Before you spend a dollar on grading fees, run the math. Grading is an investment, and like any investment, it should have a positive expected return. The formula is straightforward:
Net graded proceeds = PSA 10 sold price × (1 − 0.13 eBay fee) − $5 shipping
Grading profit = Net graded proceeds − (raw price + grading fee)
Rule of thumb: Grade only if PSA 10 price − raw NM price is at least 3× your grading fee + round-trip shipping.
Example: You have a raw Charizard ex from Obsidian Flames. Raw NM price is $100. PSA 10 median sold price on eBay is $500. Grading fee is $25 (PSA Bulk). Shipping and supplies are $10.
- Net graded proceeds: $500 × 0.87 − $5 = $430
- Grading profit: $430 − ($100 + $25) = $305
- ROI: 244% — this is a strong grading candidate.
Now consider a $15 bulk rare. PSA 10 sells for $20. Grading fee is $25. The math: $20 × 0.87 − $5 = $12.40 net. Grading profit: $12.40 − ($15 + $25) = -$27.60. This card should not be graded.
Sentimental cards, authentication-only submissions, and cards you plan to keep long-term are exceptions to the math. If you are grading for your personal collection and do not intend to sell, the resale math matters less.
Step 2: Pre-Screen Your Cards
Pre-screening is the single most important step in the grading process. Over 70% of cards that come back at PSA 8 or lower could have been identified as non-candidates with careful home inspection. You need three tools: a 10x jeweler's loupe ($10-15 on Amazon), a bright desk lamp, and a centering measurement tool.
Check Centering First
Centering is the #1 reason Pokemon cards fail to achieve PSA 10. PSA requires 55/45 or better on the front and 75/25 or better on the back for a Gem Mint 10. BGS is stricter: 50/50 to 55/45 on the front for a 10.
To measure centering, use a centering tool app (several are available on iOS and Android) or a physical centering guide. Measure the border widths on all four sides. Calculate the ratio: wider border ÷ (wider border + narrower border) × 100. If the result is worse than 55/45 on either the left-right or top-bottom axis, the card is not a PSA 10 candidate.
PSA changed its front centering standard from 60/40 to 55/45 in 2025. Cards with certification numbers below approximately 100,000,000 were graded under the older, more lenient 60/40 standard. If you are using population reports as a guide, look for cards with higher certification numbers to understand current standards.
Inspect All Four Corners
Examine each corner under 10x magnification. You are looking for any whitening, fuzziness, rounding, dings, or bends. Even the slightest imperfection on one corner can drop a card from a 10 to a 9. A corner that looks razor-sharp to your naked eye can reveal micro-fraying under a loupe.
Corner wear is the most common issue on vintage cards. Cards that were played with or stored loosely in the 1990s almost always have some corner wear. Pack-fresh modern cards are more likely to have sharp corners, but factory cutting can still produce micro-imperfections.
Examine Edges Under Angled Light
Tilt the card at different angles under a bright light. Edge whitening shows up as tiny white dots or lines along the card's borders. Black-bordered cards (1st Edition Base Set, etc.) reveal edge wear instantly. Look for chipping, notching, fraying, and any rough spots along all four edges on both sides.
Check the Surface
Hold the card under a bright light at an angle. Rotate it slowly. Holographic cards will reveal surface scratches, print lines, and other defects when the light catches them. Surface issues are the #1 reason pack-fresh cards do not get a 10.
Common surface defects that kill a PSA 10:
- Print lines: Thin horizontal lines from the factory printing process. Not your fault, but PSA counts them against you.
- Holo scratches: Scratches on the holographic foil that only show at certain angles.
- Ink spots: Tiny blobs of excess ink from printing.
- Fingerprints: Oil from your fingers leaves permanent marks, especially on holofoil. Always handle cards by the edges.
- Silvering: Metallic sheen where the foil layer shows through, common on older holos.
Look at the Back
Do not forget the back. Whitening on back edges, print defects, and centering all count toward the final grade. Flip the card and repeat the corner, edge, and surface inspection. PSA evaluates both sides equally.
Many collectors assume that a card straight from a pack is automatically a 10. Not even close. Factory imperfections like print lines, off-center cuts, and surface scratches from packaging are extremely common. Only about 30-40% of carefully handled pack-fresh modern cards earn a PSA 10. Run an AI grade estimate with GradePokemon's free tool to get an instant assessment before you spend money on professional grading.
Step 3: Choose Your Grading Company
Your choice of grading company depends on three factors: card type, value tier, and goal (resale vs. personal collection). Here is a quick decision guide:
| If your card is... | And your goal is... | Choose |
|---|---|---|
| Vintage WOTC (1999-2003), $500+ | Maximum resale value | PSA |
| Modern Pokemon, under $500 raw | Best cost-to-value ratio | CGC ($17 Bulk) |
| Condition-sensitive modern, flawless | Sub-grade transparency / Black Label | BGS |
| Multiple copies of same card | Consistent grading | TAG |
| High-value card for eBay flip | Fastest resale liquidity | PSA |
For a detailed comparison of pricing, turnaround times, and grading standards across all four companies, see our PSA vs CGC vs BGS vs TAG comparison guide.
Step 4: Create an Account and Submission
PSA Submission Process
- Create a free account at psacard.com. Free accounts can submit at Economy ($33/card) and above. For regular submissions, consider the Collectors Club membership ($99/year), which unlocks the Bulk tier at $24.99/card for cards under $499 declared value.
- Click "Submit" and start a new order. For each card, enter: card name, set name, card number, year, and declared value.
- Choose your service tier. Declared value determines the minimum tier. Cards under $499 qualify for Economy ($33) or Bulk ($24.99 with membership). Cards $500-$1,999 require Regular ($50+). Cards $2,000+ require Express ($150+).
- Review your submission summary and pay. PSA charges the full grading fee at submission. Select return shipping speed and insurance ($10-15 standard).
- Print the submission form. PSA generates a packing slip with a barcode. This form goes inside your shipping box. Without it, PSA cannot match your cards to your order.
CGC Submission Process
CGC's process is similar. Create an account at cgccards.com, start a new submission, enter card details, choose your tier (Bulk at $17, Economy at $25, Standard at $45, Express at $85), pay, and print the packing slip. CGC accepts toploaders unlike PSA, which makes packaging slightly easier for first-time submitters.
BGS Submission Process
Create an account at beckett.com. BGS offers Base ($14.95, no sub-grades), Standard ($34.95 with sub-grades), Express ($79.95), and Priority ($124.95). Sub-grades are included at Standard and above. Choose your tier based on declared value and desired turnaround.
TAG Submission Process
TAG's submission process is the newest of the four. Create an account, enter card details, and choose your service level (~$18/card standard). TAG's AI-powered system means your card is graded by machine, not human, ensuring consistency across submissions.
Declared value is the estimated market value of each raw card at the time of submission. It determines your service tier and insurance coverage. Declare too low and the grader will upcharge you and add a processing delay. Declare too high and you are paying for a tier you do not need. Use recent eBay sold listings to determine accurate declared values.
Step 5: Prepare and Pack Your Cards
Proper packaging is critical. Cards damaged in transit cannot be graded, and you will have lost both the card and the fee. Follow these steps for every submission:
Sleeve and Holder
- Wash and thoroughly dry your hands. Natural oils from your fingers can leave marks on the surface, especially on holographic cards. Some collectors wear lint-free cotton gloves for extra precaution.
- Place each card in a fresh penny sleeve. Slide it in gently — do not force it, as bending corners during insertion is a common and avoidable mistake.
- Slide the penny-sleeved card into a Card Saver 1 (semi-rigid holder). Do not use toploaders. PSA specifically recommends Card Saver 1 holders. BGS and CGC accept them too. Toploaders allow cards to rattle during transit, causing edge damage. Graders charge extra to remove cards from toploaders.
Bundle and Protect
- Stack your Card Savers together. If sending multiple cards, wrap them as a single bundle using a rubber band or painter's tape. Do not let individual Card Savers float loose inside the package.
- Place a piece of cardboard on each side of the bundle for extra rigidity. Cut the cardboard slightly larger than the Card Savers so the edges do not poke through the bubble wrap.
- Wrap the entire bundle in 1-2 layers of small-bubble bubble wrap. Tape it shut. The bubble wrap serves two purposes: impact protection and preventing cards from sliding.
Choose Your Mailer
Use either a rigid cardboard mailer (the kind used for photographs) or a small box. A padded envelope on its own is not rigid enough. If you must use a padded envelope, put the bubble-wrapped bundle inside a folded piece of cardboard first to create rigidity. Fill any empty space with crumpled paper or packing peanuts. Shake the package gently — if you can feel things moving, add more packing material.
Include Paperwork
Print your submission form or packing slip and include it inside the package. Put it in a small plastic bag or sleeve so it does not get damaged in transit. Your submission number needs to be clearly visible. Do not write "Valuable Cards Inside" on the package — this invites theft.
Step 6: Ship Safely
Use a tracked, insured shipping service. USPS Priority Mail with tracking and insurance works fine for submissions under $1,000 in declared value. For higher-value submissions, use UPS or FedEx with full insurance coverage and signature confirmation.
Drop your package at the post office counter, not in a blue drop box. Keep your tracking number and receipt. Monitor delivery. Most grading companies will confirm receipt within 1-2 business days of delivery.
| Declared Value | Recommended Shipping | Insurance |
|---|---|---|
| Under $500 | USPS Priority Mail | $500 included |
| $500-$2,000 | USPS Priority Mail + extra insurance | Full declared value |
| $2,000+ | UPS or FedEx with signature | Full declared value + signature |
Step 7: Track and Receive
After your submission is received, you can track its progress through your account dashboard. The stages typically include:
- Received / Arrived: Your package has been logged into the system.
- Scheduled for Grading: Your cards are in the grading queue.
- Grading Complete: Cards have been evaluated and encapsulated.
- Assembly: Slabs are being prepared for return shipment.
- Shipped Back: Your graded cards are on their way home.
Turnaround times vary by company and tier. PSA Economy currently takes 60-120+ business days. CGC Bulk takes 25-40 business days. BGS Economy takes 45-75 business days. TAG takes approximately 20-30 business days. Express tiers from all companies range from 2-15 business days.
Once your slabs arrive, inspect them immediately. Check that the grade matches your expectations, the card is properly seated in the slab, and there is no damage from return shipping. If there is an issue, contact the grading company's customer service immediately.
Frequently Asked Questions
How much does it cost to grade a Pokemon card in 2026?
PSA starts at $24.99/card for Collectors Club Bulk members ($99/year membership) or $33 at Economy. CGC starts at $17/card for Bulk. BGS starts at $14.95 for Base (no sub-grades). TAG charges approximately $18/card. Add $20-30 for shipping and insurance both ways, making the all-in cost typically $60-80 per card.
How long does Pokemon card grading take?
PSA Economy/Value takes 60-120+ business days. CGC Bulk takes 25-40 business days. BGS Economy takes 45-75 business days. TAG takes approximately 20-30 business days. Express tiers from all companies range from 2-15 business days. Volume spikes after major set releases add weeks to every tier.
Should I use toploaders or Card Savers for grading submissions?
Use Card Savers (semi-rigid holders), not toploaders. PSA specifically recommends Card Saver 1 holders. Toploaders allow cards to rattle during transit, causing edge damage. Graders charge extra to remove cards from toploaders. Put each card in a penny sleeve first, then into a Card Saver.
What is the PSA 10 centering requirement?
PSA requires 55/45 or better centering on the front and 75/25 or better on the back for a Gem Mint 10. PSA changed this from 60/40 to 55/45 on the front in 2025, making the PSA 10 slightly harder to achieve. BGS is stricter, requiring 50/50 to 55/45 on the front for a 10.
Can I grade cards that are not in perfect condition?
Yes. Grading companies grade cards on a 1-10 scale. A card with light wear might receive a PSA 7 or 8, which still adds authentication and condition certification value. However, the grading math (PSA 10 price minus raw price vs. grading fee) is less favorable for lower grades. Run the numbers before submitting.
What happens if my card is damaged in shipping?
If you used tracked, insured shipping with the correct declared value, you can file a claim with the carrier for reimbursement. Take photos of both sides of every card before sealing the package, so you have proof of pre-shipping condition. Contact the grading company immediately if the card arrives damaged.
Can I re-submit a card that got a lower grade than expected?
Yes, you can crack the slab and re-submit to the same or a different grading company. This is called a crossover submission. However, there is no guarantee the grade will improve, and you will pay the full grading fee again. Use the population report and your own pre-screening to decide if re-submission is worth the cost.
How can I estimate my card's grade before submitting?
Use GradePokemon's free AI grading tool at gradepokemon.com. Upload or snap a photo of your card and get instant grade estimates for PSA, CGC, and BGS, including sub-grade predictions for corners, edges, centering, and surface. This saves you money by identifying non-candidates before you pay for professional grading.
Ready to grade? Try GradePokemon's free AI card grading tool to get instant grade estimates before you spend money on professional grading.